Of all the currant
varieties—red, white, and black—I love the red the best. And I love that the
fruit lady sells them for $1.50 an overflowing half-pint. Since most people don’t want them
(thankfully, most people are fools), she practically gives them away. They are
always waiting patiently for someone to, please, take them home. They are like little orphans who are left
behind while all the other kids (the raspberries, in this case) get adopted.
The someone who finally takes them is, of course, me, and my
charges are eager to please: bright,
shiny, glistening, and bobbing on their slender stems. When I have enough to
make a currant
pie, a rare old-fashioned treat, that is what I usually do. This time,
however, I had only two generous containers—a healthy pint. I still have some pickled
currants from last year, but I was clean out of currant jelly. Currant
jelly is a necessity. It is ideal for glazing tarts, for adding fruity richness
to sauces, and for spreading on an English muffin. Because of the scarcity of
the fruit, it is hard to find it commercially anymore, and when you do, it is
pricey and never as fresh-tasting as you would like. So it’s a special product to make at home, and to give as a gift to a
fellow baker or heirloom fruit aficionado.
Those of you who have been with me for a long time know that
when it comes to preserving,
I have strong opinions. I do not use pectin. Currants have natural pectin, lots
of it, and when your fruit is perfect, you really don’t need it to obtain a
gel. I happen to like my jams and jellies soft,
somewhat fluid. Another reason to eschew pectin, especially for things like strawberry jam where you want the berries suspended in a nice gelatinous pool. I also use less sugar that is conventional,
which allows for a more fruit-forward product as well as contributes to the
softer texture. And in this particular case, I use a lazy-woman’s method of my
own that is a hybrid of the traditional jam and jelly methods. It works.
Spicy Currant Jelly
For a change of pace, I decided to spice it up with cinnamon
and my adored Aleppo pepper (really, I need to do an entire post on the stuff);
the jelly has a nice hot edge to it. The
directions are general. Makes about 1
pint.
1 generous pint currants, stems removed
1 ¾ c sugar
Wedge (1/4) lemon
3” fresh cinnamon stick
¼ tea Aleppo pepper
In a 2 qt saucepan, mix the currants, sugar, and pepper.
Squeeze the lemon wedge and stir in the juice; drop in the squeezed lemon rind
and the cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring occasionally, until
the currants have broken down into a mush and the liquid coats a spoon, about 5-10
minutes. Place a double thickness of cheesecloth in a strainer and set it over
a bowl. Pour the mixture through the strainer; the liquid will collect in the
bowl. Press gently on the currants but do not mash or your jelly will be cloudy.
Discard the currants. Pour the liquid, which should be setting nicely, into
jars and seal. If you want a little stronger gel, return it to the saucepan and
boil until it sheets from a spoon. Do not overcook. |
| You do not need pectin to get a perfect gel! |
