I am never without cider vinegar. Because if I run out, I immediately need it again before I can even get to the store (word to the wise: Buy at least a half-gallon; it lasts). Cider vinegar is that versatile, and that, in my opinion, nonsubstitutable. If that is a word. You may sometimes see distilled white vinegar suggested as an alternative, but no, too sharp. Apple cider vinegar is sweeter and more mellow—I’d go for my white balsamic, to which I am equally devoted, before that, at least for dressings and maybe some chutneys. But really, just have it on hand. It’s dirt cheap and always produces just the right subtle result.
Of course we cook and preserve with it. But it has been a
kitchen and apothecary staple for many other purposes since ancient times—as a
refreshing and healthful tonic (making a come-back today, bottled like water
and sold, like water, at high prices to the susceptible); an excellent cleaning
product and stain remover; a cool skin astringent; a rinse for squeaky clean
hair; a pesticide; a disinfectant; a de-scaler; a weight-loss aid--and Colonial
bakers understood that a little bit worked a tender magic on pie crust and
bread, and that it was just as at home in a homey dessert as in a jar of
pickles, as this unusual—and unusually good--roly-poly
attests.
Vinegar Roly-Poly With Corn
You can’t get more old-fashioned than my version of this old
idea: truly, something my Pennsylvania German grandmother would have made, even
with what turned out to be a somewhat inspired use, if I do say so myself, of Coll’s
corn. I do sometimes think Grandma’s spirit lives on in me. Serves 8.
For the syrup
¾ cider vinegar
1 ½ c water
1 cup sugar
2 tea cinnamon
For the dough
2 c sifted a-p flour
1 T bp
1 tea salt
1/3 cup (5 T) lard or, if you must, Crisco
¾ whole milk
For the filling
1 ear fresh corn
4 T butter, divided
¼ c sugar plus a little more
2 tea cinnamon
Preheat the oven to 375 F. Lightly grease a 9” round pan or
pie plate and set aside.
Combine the vinegar, water, 1 c of sugar, and 2 tea cinnamon
in small pan over low heat til sugar dissolves. Raise the heat to medium, and
reduce by half or so to a light syrup, about 20-30 minutes. Set aside.
While making the syrup, shuck the corn and cut the kernels
off; do not scrape the ear yet, but set it and the corn aside.
In a medium bowl, mix the flour, bp, and salt. Cut in the lard
or shortening. Scrape the milk from the reserved ear into the mixture, add the
whole mile, and stir to make a soft dough. Lightly flour the counter or a board
and roll the dough into a rectangle ¼” thick, about 9 x 10. Sprinkle the
remaining ¼ sugar and 2 tea cinnamon over the reserved corn kernels. Sprinkle a
bit of extra sugar over the dough, then distribute sugar-spiced corn over it. Dot with 2 T butter.
Roll the dough gently from the longer side and cut the dough
crosswise 1” thick, first trimming each end by about ½”. Place the slices cut
side up, close together, in the pan. Dot with the remaining butter. Pour over
all the hot vinegar mixture. I recommend
placing on a nonstick sheet pan or enameled broiler pan. Bake 30-40 min
at 375, until lightly golden and dry to the touch, with no apparent liquid: a
sauce will have formed on the bottom of the pinwheels. Let sit for just a minute, then serve very warm,
with some pan sauce and then some heavy cream spooned over, as a dessert or breakfast treat.
Note: Don’t be
tempted to cut back too much on the 4 tea of cinnamon. It’s a lot, but not too
much; it transforms quite a bit in the syrup. If you cut it down, cut a
teaspoon from the sugar mixture that goes inside the dough.
